Good Food

All roads lead to Rome and possibly, to some nasty food experiences as well. Not at all surprising when you rely on certain "reputable" guide books or the concierge at your hotel for inspiration.

You probably know by now that you are never EVER to enter a trattoria in Rome if 1) you are being cajoled by a sexy (or otherwise) waiter brandishing a menu on the street or 2) you see a "tourist menu" or 3) you see "lasagne" in big letters on the board. And with regard to pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) never EVER eat any from the stores where you can actually see piles of the stuff behind glass, where it's likely to have been sitting for hours, just centimetres from your face as you walk by. There's one particularly nasty place in the Pantheon square which fits this description perfectly. But pizza deserves it's own individual post so let's get back to trattorie.

Actually, I'm going to go straight ahead and suggest a few eateries that I know personally. The reason I've given you the phone numbers is so that you book. Despite the recession, and whining owners, restaurants tend to be fully booked.

Lemaniinpasta Osteria
Via dei Genovesi 37 (Trastevere)
Tel: 065816017

My ongoing favourite has it's own well deserved post.




Cybo
Osteria, Wine & Cocktail Bar
Via di Tor Millina 27
Tel: 0668210341
www.cyboroma.it

A newly opened eatery located in a street off Piazza Navona where every store is a restaurant, bar or gelateria and there are just too many tourists and too much visual interference. Cybo however is a welcome oasis with its elegant/modern meets rustic/ancient ambience. Food here is traditionally simple, ideal if you're looking for typical Roman dishes with a subtle modern touch where each ingredient's flavour stands out. You can also eat "cicheti" , a Venetian word for little snacks, where you have many small titbits. The fried titbits are especially delicious. The wine list is noteworthy and the qualified barman is renowned for his creative cocktails. Music is soft lounge and there are outdoor tables for those who like to watch the passing parade.




Al Ristoro Degli Angeli
Via Luigi Orlando 2
(Piazza Bartolomeo Romano - Garbatella area)
Tel: 0651436020

Located in a 1920's piazza, off the beaten track in the quirky and fashionable Garbatella neighbourhood, this enoteca/trattoria has a Friday and Saturday night special of a mouth-watering boneless fish soup and an impressive wine selection.




Tram Tram Trattoria
Via Dei Reti 44/46
Tel: 06490416

Located in San Lorenzo in an industrial looking street in a somewhat alternative student area, Tram Tram offers a variety of delicious dishes prepared in a light Sicilian style.




Pizzeria la Montecarlo
Vicolo Savelli 11a-13
Tel: 066861877

The frenetic pace at this longstanding and popular establishment is not for the feint hearted. The service ethic is casual, brisk and friendly and the pizza, fried food and massive serves of pasta are all excellent. Lunches are dramatically quieter but evenings are a lot of fun if you can deal with the noise level. They don't take bookings so expect to stand in line or push in (as many do).


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Sora Margherita Trattoria
066874216
Piazza Delle Cinque Scole


When you first wander into this piazza there may appear to be no restaurant anywhere to be seen. The clue here is the single door graced with a red pompom curtain, a lantern above the door frame and a few rickety chairs for waiting patrons. If you're looking for elegance this tiny no-frills trattoria is definitely not the place. Expect unstable tables, barely comfortable folding chairs and elbow to elbow seating. However, food here is always exceptional and I'm always mystified by the variety of marvellous dishes that emerge from the kitchen which is the size of a cupboard. If you are not familiar with Jewish style Roman food, this trattoria is by far the best introduction. In winter it is the coziest place in the city and the tortellini in brodo will keep you warm for the rest of the day. Artichokes are a specialty as are their fresh fettuccine with ricotta. Needless to say, booking is essential. Did I mention there are no windows?

An Exceptionally Good Restaurant

LeManiInPasta

Osteria

Up to the day the movers sadly (for me) whisked all my belongings away from Trastevere, I could say I was one of the regulars at LeManiInPasta, having lived for several blissful years in picturesque Vicolo Dell'Atleta around the corner. Now that I live on the distant other side of the river, 6 long Rome kilometres away, I am no longer a regular (boo-hoo) but it's still my eatery of choice, never failing to impress. An osteria with a following of aficionados who regularly pop in for lunch is no small feat in Trastevere where competition is fierce and locals prefer generally not to eat out.


The fast moving and dynamic chef is Sardinian and his island's culinary traditions are evident in several of his signature dishes. A wall of glass separates kitchen from seating so you can watch him artfully juggling frypans, tossing pasta and swirling sauces and he looks out for you as well....

Specialties include marinated sea bass with shaved truffles (an unusual combination that works), a superb seafood antipasto by far superior to any I've had elsewhere, a selection of shellfish to have with or without pasta and top cuts of grilled meat. Ingredients are unfailingly super super fresh (I've watched suppliers create traffic havoc with their vans each morning in narrow Via Dei Genovesi).

The atmosphere is feel-good and relaxed and the waiters are friendly and attentive. You can even eat here on your own without feeling awkward in the slightest.

LeManiInPasta

Via Dei Genovesi

Tel: 065816017

(closed Monday)

Isola Tiberina

Rome's picturesque little island, l'Isola Tiberina (pictured above during winter flooding), bears some obvious similarities to the twin islands located in the Seine in Paris, the Ile de la Cite' and Ile Saint-Louis. It may not at first appear to have all the pomp and substance of its French counterparts. They are, after all, actual neighbourhhoods and are home to many grand monuments, the most well known being the cathedral of Notre Dame. I've read too somewhere that Paris's most romantic street, in a city positively brimming with romance, is on one of the Seine's islands. But as you walk across the Ponte Fabricio, Rome's oldest bridge, and approach the Isola Tiberina, you will feel positively charmed. Anyway, in my opinion, Rome too is extraordinarily romantic, and its island is a VERY romantic place. It's just that Romans don't boast about it.


Personally, I've always felt a particular attraction to this quaint little island and can't help but wonder how the thousands of people who are born on it must feel. This is another of Rome's idiosyncrasies. A significant percentage of the city's inhabitants are born here, surrounded by the swirling waters of the Tiber, in the maternity ward of the Ospedale Fatebenefratelli (Do Good Brothers ... seriously), which stands above the grounds of a Greek temple.


Numerous evocative legends regarding the island's history have circulated since ancient times. This is the one I like best.


A ship carrying a Greek statue of the god of healing, Aesculapius, was nearby when a serpent hiding on the vessel was seen slithering overboard and heading towards the reeds which then made up the island, little more than a bank in the river. Of course, in those times everyone was always on the alert for omens and this one was considered particularly auspicious, snakes being symbols of rejuvenation because of their periodic shedding of skin. This was around 300bc and the Romans were in dire need of a good omen and new cult after a long period of unrelenting pestilence. So, hot on the heels of the omen, a temple to the god was erected and the entire island was encased in travertine in the form of a ship. Bizarrly, even an Egyptian obelisk was installed strategically to represent the mast. This was removed long ago and relocated to another part of the city. All that remains of this impressive construction is part of the travertine stern with the familiar carving of the Aesculapius serpent wound around a sword. Nowadays the sword and serpent are on the insignia of the American Medical Association and have been adopted as a distinguishing symbol in many other medical fields.


Interestingly, Rome has another island dedicated to Aesculapius. This one is located in the "laghetto" in the Villa Borghese gardens where a small, graceful temple was erected in the late 18th century and can still be admired today.


The Isola Tiberina is a perfect location for a long, uninterrupted kiss, as you can't help but notice if you hang around more than 10 minutes keeping an eye on all the couples. And the miniature island in the Borghese Gardens with its little temple is without a doubt a very tempting place as well. So no need to go to Paris.

The Isola Tiberina's romantic charm fades a little in summer when the film festival, l'Isola Del Cinema, envelops the island with its two screening areas and refreshment stands, a pleasantly cool place on hot evenings. Foreign movies are generally dubbed in Italian so unless you want to confirm that your knowledge of the language is pretty dismal, it would be wiser to simply enjoy the many bars and eateries that line the banks.

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