Irresistible Take-Out

Rosso Sapore
Largo Argentina (behind the newspaper stand)


Rosso Pomodoro is adjacent to its mother restaurant and shares the same kitchen. Here you can pick up the delicious snacks which you see on the streets of Naples: pizzette rosse, suppli', calzoncini and sometimes panini


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Ré Calamaro! (King Squid)

Piazza Delle Vaschette 14
(San Pietro area, off Borgo Vittorio)


In a city where take-out food is a relatively new concept and has generally been limited to pizza and suppli', and more recently to kebabs, this little business seems almost revolutionary. Here, on the way to the Vatican, you can pick up a paper cone filled with the freshest fried calamari rings (or just the tentacles if you prefer your food to be wispy), prawns, cod, potatoes, sometimes vegetable tempura and more. Prices very reasonable.



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Mondo Arancina

Via Marcantonio Colonna 38
Tel: 0697619213
www.mondoarancina.it

Open 20 hours a day and not to be missed, Mondo Arancina is the closest you will get to fried-food heaven. It specializes in Sicilian arancini, (a close relative to the Roman suppli'), huge deep-fried cones of saffron rice filled with luscious, oozing centres, each one named for a Sicilan locality (Stromboli being my choice). If you were to spread one out on a plate with a fork, you would have a more than generous serve of risotto. Also try pannelle, sfincioni, pitoni (pythons?) and of course, pizza alla pala. There's nowhere to sit unfortunately, not even a panchina outside, but their stay-warm, keep-fragrant paper bags do exactly that so you can take your bulging parcels down to the nearby Tiber embankment where the city's turkey sized seagulls will entertain you.

Apartment Rentals in Rome

One of Rome's few and most frustrating disappointments, unless you're staying in a luxury hotel, can often be a hotel room not up to one's expectation. How utterly depressing when, with a forced smile, you hastily come out with an apologetic "we'll be out most of the time anyhow". Apartments on the other hand can have you bouncing on the beds with enthusiasm. I've actually seen an entire family do this (no, not mine).

Sometimes located in grand palazzi still owned by the Roman nobility, holiday rentals here are highly sought after. You could find yourself in a medieval building, a baroque palazzo or a 19th century tenement, perfectly and often quite strikingly renovated. More often than not period details such as wood beamed ceilings, wall frescoes and antiques have been skilfully restored sometimes after long periods of neglect.

A good reason to book an apartment is to experience the everyday shopping for food the Italian way, in one of the many vibrant outdoor markets scattered around the city, then returning "home" with the delicious booty and seeing how much better everything tastes here than back home (it really DOES taste better here). This is also the ideal way to chit chat with some hardcore romani and polish up on your Italian.

There are numerous online booking companies. An excellent selection of choice apartments in unbeatable Rome locations is offered by www.rome-accom.com, owned and operated by local husband and wife team, Jill and Leon Kammer. They are personally familiar with each property (and have already discarded the ones you wouldn't want to set foot in) and have created an impressively fluid website with unusually accurate descriptions and plenty of good quality images.

www.rome-accom.com

Rooftop Restaurants in Rome

Rooftop dining in this eternal of cities is definitely a tad pricey, but you ARE paying for the view from the top of a minimum 5-star hotel, with an elegantly decorated dining area and more likely than not, a renowned and much sought after chef in the kitchen. Some of these restaurants now offer reasonable "budget" menus in an attempt to recession-proof their businesses.

Hassler Hotel Roma

Imago Restaurant– Chef Francesco Apreda

Piazza Trinita' Dei Monti 6
Tel: 06699340
http://www.imagorestaurant.com

Rome's most celebrated terrace restaurant located in the prestigious Hassler Hotel at the top of the Spanish Steps.

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Rome Cavalieri Hilton

Via Alberto Caldolo 101
Tel: 0635091
http://www.romecavalieri.com/index.php

La Pergola – internationally acclaimed restaurant in a luxury setting with multi award winning chef Heinz Beck

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Grand Hotel de la Minerve

Piazza Della Minerva 69
Tel: 06695201
http://www.grandhoteldelaminerve.com/5-star-hotel-in-rome.htm

La Cesta restaurant operates during the summer from the roof terrace which is the closest view you will ever have to the Pantheon's magnificent dome

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Hotel Majestic

Via Veneto 50
Tel: 06421441
http://www.filippolamantia.com/profilo.htm

Ristorante La Mantia - opened just this month and named after resident chef Filippo La Mantia, well known for his original twists to Sicilian cuisine. For one, he has banished garlic and onions in favour of Sicily's light but heady fragrances including a very skillful use of lemon and orange peel throughout his cuisine. The restaurant is situated on the first floor terrace overlooking Via Veneto

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Hotel Sofitel

Via Lombardia 47
Tel: 06478021

Terrazza La Bellavista – actually a lounge bar noteworthy for its unrestricted views of the city, food comes directly from the restaurant downstairs, Le 49, where chef Omar Agostino spins his magic

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Hotel Splendide Royal

Via Di Porta Pinciana 14
Tel: 0642168838
http://www.mirabelle.it/it/photo_gallery

Commanding views from the positively chic Ristorante Il Mirabelle – Chef Bruno Borghese

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Hotel Eden Terrace

Via Ludovisi 49
Tel: 06478121

Chef - Adriano Cavagnini

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Casina Valadier

Piazza Bucarest on Pincian Hill
0669922090
http://www.casinavaladier.it/

This graceful early 19th century classical villa is situated in one of Rome's most panoramic and romantic locations in the Villa Borghese gardens. Its lovely terrace restaurant overlooks the city and you really do have a rooftop view. Perfect place to be wooed but fine for lunch with friends as well.


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Hotel Forum

Via Tor de' Conti, 25-3006.6792446
Tel: 06.6792446
http://www.hotelforum.com/en/restaurant.htm


In winter the restaurant is indoors and the decor being what it is, (the word dreary comes to mind), its best to stick to warm days and summer when the restaurant spills out onto the magnificent terrace where you have one of Rome's best views of the ancient Forums. Granted, there ARE big windows.

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Forty Seven Hotel

Via Petroselli 47

Tel: 066787816

http://www.circusbar.it/index_2.swf

Circus Bar Roof Garden is an ideal place for a relaxing drink at sunset, a' la carte dining or Sunday brunch with views from the Aventine Hill to the ancient bell tower of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, home to the intimidating Bocca Della Verita', and across to Trastevere with a peek of St.Peter's dome. For those of you who love to plan absolutely everything, the menu is available online.

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Summer Music Festivals in Rome

FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DI VILLA ADRIANA
until 16^th July

Inspiring music, theatre and dance from Spain, Great Britain, Lithuania, Canada, Russia, Italy, Belgium at Hadrian's Villa near Tivoli, a UNESCO World Heritage Site composed of a complex of classical 2^nd century buildings which continue to influence architects and artists. Here are some highlights from the rich offering in this year's programme:

26^th and 27^th June – Hors Pistes Circus in Coma Hydillique

9^th and 10^th July – Israel Galvàn Flamenco dance from Seville

15^th and 16^th July -Marinskji Theatre Ballet from St. Petersburg

29^th June - Duke Ellington Memorial Concert performed by the Rome Auditorium's Jazz Orchestra

Special buses run from Rome for ticket holders.

http://www.auditorium.com/villaadriana/

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LUGLIO SUONA BENE (July Sounds Well)
Auditorium Parco Della Musica

25^th June - 31^st July

Star-studded line-up this year at the Auditorium's outdoor theatre. The Auditorium is Rome's principal music complex. Designed by architect Renzo Piano in the 1990's, it has three concert halls and an outdoor theatre where this festival is being held.

Performers include:

Steely Dan - McCoy Tyner Quintet with Bill Frisell - Mogwai - James Taylor - Anastacia - Buena Vista Social Club - Michael Bolton - David Byrne - Burt Bacharach - John Fogerty -Tracy Chapman

http://www.auditorium.com/lugliosuonabene/page

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ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO (Rome Meets the World)
Laghetto di Villa Ada
(entrance Via Di Ponte Salario)

16^th June - 8^th August

Multi-ethnic music festival in its 15^th year, with performers from Brazil, Jamaica, Spain, Australia, UK, US, international gypsy bands and Balkan jazz.

Terrific lakeside and pine tree filled location in one of Rome's most loved beautiful public parks, with ethnic and Italian food stands and plenty of seating. Just the place to cool off on a hot summer's night.

http://www.villaada.org/

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VILLA CELIMONTANA JAZZ FESTIVAL - 16^th Edition

18^th June - 20^th September

One of the best summer music venues....a cleverly designed location in the gardens of Villa Celimontana, a quietly enthusiastic crowd and an intimate, sophisticated mood. Some nights I've had the distinct feeling of having stumbled across someone's private party.

The Villa Celimontana gardens are just a short stroll from the Colosseum and the festival area is surrounded by towering pines which loom overhead. Several bars and interesting eateries are located on cleverly set-up platforms which overlook the stage and stalls area so you can also view concerts over drinks or dinner. Bookings a must!

Gates open at 9pm, concerts commence at 10pm, then a late concert at 11.30pm by a guest band.

http://www.villacelimontanajazz.com/ita/programma_it.html

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SUMMERTIME 2009
Casa Del Jazz
Viale Di Porta Ardeatina 55

9pm - 1^st July - 31^st July

Casa Del Jazz is located in a villa confiscated from a notorious underworld figure. It was eagerly earmarked by the City of Rome as the home of Casa del Jazz, its purpose to attract and educate an audience of new and old -comers. The outdoor stage is set up in the gorgeous grounds next to the villa inside of which you can now find a small jazz library and bar. There's also a lovely terrace restaurant in another structure inside the grounds.

http://www.casajazz.it/news.asp?id=942

http://www.casajazz.it/canale.asp?id=856

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ROCK IN ROME
Ippodrome delle Capannelle
Via Appia Nuova 1245

27^th June - 25^th July

The unlikely location is a racecourse successfully transformed into a huge rock village with disco and food stands open until 3am. Line-up includes:

30^th June – UB-40

4^th July – Marlene Kuntz

14^th July The Killers and Franz Ferdinand

22^nd July - Nine Inch Nails

http://www.rockinroma.com/

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FIESTA!
Festival of Latin American Music & Culture - 15^th Edition
Ippodrome delle Cappanelle
Via Appia Nuova 1245

through to 15^th August

A maxi outdoor club (7000sq metres) hosting live music nightly with plenty of bars and restaurants and dance floors. This is the place for the latest Latin American dance trends with guest artists from Spain, Colombia and Brazil, this year's theme being "100% Brazil".

Salsa, Reggae, Samba, Cuban nights, frenetic pace, crowds

http://www.fiesta.it/

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BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN Concert

Stadio Olimpico

19^th July – 10pm

ask at your hotel for nearest ticket seller

Summer Opera in Rome

The prestigious Rome Opera Theatre's summer outdoor season begins in July and performances continue into August. For lovers of opera or ballet, an evening at the very grand, ancient Baths of Caracalla is an unforgettable event. This year's programme includes:

(ballet) Midsummer Night's Dream July 1st-8th

Tosca July 14th - August 6th

Carmen July 29th - August 9th

Information at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma website.

http://en.operaroma.it/stagione/cartellone_2009/(mese)/7

Even if you have little interest in opera, a summer evening in these impressive surroundings is sure to be a memorable and moving experience.

Sensational Shoes in Rome

I had actually considered a blog ONLY about shoes. The only problem was I could never have shared it with certain members of my immediate family. But in order to satisfy everyone who asks me "WHERE did you buy those amazing shoes?" one of my first posts can unabashedly be about these wonderful objects of desire.

I noticed at a reasonably early age that my pretty but plain feet could be transformed into dazzling feet. This discovery lead to regular passion driven hunts for sensational feet transforming shoes. The trick is to find a pair that flatter your feet, ankles, calves and in such a way that when you walk, you have that lovely feminine and very Italian lilt. There's a lot more here than the flashy big names that sell the same styles in all of their stores worldwide, from Manhattan to Omotesando.

OK, the standard designer brands, if you really want to know, are mostly located in the Piazza Di Spagna shopping area. A twenty minute walk up and down the main shopping streets and you will stumble across the majority of the big names. .. Ferragamo, Prada, Jimmy Choo, Weitzman, Prada, Sergio Rossi... but if you're looking for something strikingly impressive, unique, arty or poetic (yes, shoes are most definitely poetic), here is a list of stores where you will find that exquisite pair of shoes.

Herzel de Bach

Without any doubt, my favourite shoe designs. Decidedly impressive, a pair of these sophisticated eye-catching shoes can in effect make an outfit. Reportedly even Monica Bellucci shops here and there's absolutely no way Ms Bellucci could purchase a pair of shoes that doesn't tingle with sensuality. The store's elegantly sculptured 5cm signature heel and its many variations of the skilfully intricate, very sexy black suede flat sandal are a sheer delight. The photo at the top is of Herzel's store display, shoes perched bird-like in a thicket of white branches.

Herzel de Bach
Via Del Babuino 123
Via Di Propaganda 14
(both in the Piazza Di Spagna area)

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Fausto Santini

Santini has been producing its own show-stopping shoes, in premium quality leathers, for three decades. The leathers used are thick, remarkably soft and firm, with a unique finish, and styles are avant-garde both in their architectural quality and unusual colours. Santini handbags come in a variety of trend-setting styles which include sophisticated satchels, small back packs and men's bags.

Fausto Santini
Via Frattina 120
www.faustosantini.com/

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Mada

An unassuming boutique shoe store where shoes are lying around in untidy but studied little heaps. This store has been around for at least 30 years and has a regular international client base. Brands here are chosen for quality and originality and their ability to perfectly complement new season's fashions.

Mada
Via Della Croce 57

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Sciu' Scià

This is one of Rome's few remaining traditional footwear boutiques, selling shoes crafted from quality leathers. The store is easy to miss as it doesn't have all the colour and glitz of other stores but the styles are unfailingly innovative and new. And exceedingly comfortable, as indeed Italian shoes always were. Excellent value for money as well.

Sciu' Scià
Via Torre Argentina (metres away from Largo Argentina)

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Guja

Relatively new spacious store with plenty of variety. If you're here from another hemisphere, you may find some early-bird new season's styles. If you need a break between fittings, you can grab some sliced papaya, pineapple or mango from the fruit stand at the corner nearby.

Guja
Via Del Gambero 9

and more to come...