A Foodies' Guide to Markets in Rome

Rome's Best 6 Fresh Food Markets



Rome has around 130 official and closely monitored neighbourhood markets known as 'mercati rionali'. Some are quite large taking up an entire block. Others are small, some just the size of a small greengrocer's or even just a few stalls crowded into a narrow lane. The foodie lurking in you will be positively delighted by the sights, sounds and heady smells of these animated morning markets.

Haggling is not the done thing. You will just have to settle for the generosity of the vendors who often shove extra pieces of fruit or some 'odori', or herbs, into your bag. What they give you is a fragrant bunch of basil, parsley and rosemary and some celery, a carrot, a potato, an onion or two, thereby assuming that everyone plans to go home and cook up a soup or a sauce.

If you're reading a guidebook, it will no doubt tout the market at Campo Dei Fiori. It is certainly picturesque, situated as it is in one of Rome's most graceful squares but unfortunately, it has over the years gained a reputation for being an overpriced, understocked and unfriendly market for the elite. There are many other markets in Rome which offer far more variety, abundance, value and a truly unforgettable Italian food experience.

To really appreciate the extraordinary vitality, colour and sheer fun of the morning ritual, take time to delve a little further into some other quartieri where the earthy Roman dialect is at its most vocal and where people are usually very vivacious and upbeat. Romans are by nature noticeably good humoured and welcoming and nowhere is this more evident than in these mercati rionali.

The markets are all open mornings only until 1.30 or 2pm although Mercato Italia is experimenting with all day Fridays. Monday is usually the slowest day and Saturday the busiest. Sundays closed.


Huge fresh porcini mushrooms, note comparison with fist grasping the crate!


Testaccio - Piazza Testaccio
Top of my list for tradition, freshness, colour and feel good factor. One stall sells ONLY tomatoes (very pricey ones) and one of the fish vendors is reportedly Marcello Mastroianni's cousin. Vendors pride themselves on selling mainly local products and some have been there 30-50 years. Testaccio is home to the Rome Soccer Club and you will find Totti, the team's star player, proudly displayed in photos and newspaper clippings throughout the stalls.

Violet aubergines from Latina


Bologna - Piazza Dei Vespri Siciliani
Located at the end of my street, a very friendly market, lots of colour and plenty of farmers who travel to Rome daily from their farms.


Italia - Via Catania 70
In a busy student neighbourhood, plenty of variety. There is a little fresh pasta store over the road celebrated for its unique tortellini and ravioli.


Zucchine blossoms still in abundance in early October


Nomentano - Piazza Alessandria
One of the city's major bustling markets in a boutique area.


Esquilino - Via Turati (known as Mercato Piazza Vittorio)
This is where you'll go if you're planning an Indian banquet or Chinese stir-fry. Here you will find all those difficult to find ingredients, besides the usual Italian fruit, veggies and seafood.


Proud of their salami at La Montagnola


La Montagnola - Via Pico Della Mirandola
Crowded and inexpensive, great vibe.


Prickly pears hanging on tightly to their cactus blade



The following mercati are very centrally located near all the main tourist sites:

Trastevere - Piazza San Cosimato
Not vast but in nearby Via Natale Del Grande you'll find many delis

Campo Dei Fiori
Always first with 'primizie', early seasonal fruit and vegetables. Plenty of 'frutta esotica' as well.... at twice the price of l'Esquilino Market. The Campo is lined with bars so you can watch all the activity whilst seated at a coffee table.

Campo Marzio - Piazza Delle Coppelle
An initimate little piazza, supposedly the location of Caravaggio's studio, where produce is displayed with obvious pride and flair.

Farmer's Market - ex-Mattatoio di Testaccio
Open Sat and Sun mornings until December. Here you'll find farmers from all over Lazio neatly displaying their specialties. You can taste olive oil, delicious cheese and the same morning's ricotta, honey, wine, fruit and more. Stallholders change weekly.