Until quite recently, I lived in Trastevere, in captivating Vicolo Dell'Atleta to be exact. The area around here was for many years entirely different from its more widely known twin on the other side of Viale Trastevere. It was quieter, less fashionable, rather old world and there weren't any bars. Slowly but surely, most of the artisans and artists are leaving this area as well, making way for professionals (architects are gobbling up all the best locations), night clubs, new restaurants and art galleries. The area manages to still be fascinating but get in quickly before it's all over.
The following eateries are all to be found in this intriguing neighbourhood, defined by the bell tower of the Basilica di Santa Cecilia. Inside the church, you will be enthralled by the baroque sculpture of Santa Cecilia by Stefano Maderno
The following eateries are all to be found in this intriguing neighbourhood, defined by the bell tower of the Basilica di Santa Cecilia. Inside the church, you will be enthralled by the baroque sculpture of Santa Cecilia by Stefano Maderno
Da Enzo Trattoria
A small neighbourhood trattoria at the Santa Cecilia end of Trastevere where its authentic Roman food, in particular the pasta all'amatriciana, pasta alla carbonara and artichoke based dishes, make it an extremely popular spot. While you're here, have a look at Vicolo Dell'Atleta around the corner (which happens to be where I lived for several years), one of Trastevere's most picturesque streets.
Via Dei Vascellari 29
065818355
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Taverna De Mercanti
Located in a rambling intact medieval warehouse and stables, you may very well feel you have stumbled across a movie set, particularly when you walk up the stone stairs to the seating area with its original ceiling and many rustic artifacts. Despite its obvious characteristic appeal to tourists, this restaurant is not at all shunned by area locals especially in summer when the effect of the torchlit facade with its many bougainvillea draped balconies full of little tables is very impressive. The menu is typically Roman with grilled meats a specialty.
Piazza Dei Mercanti
0658816
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La Gattabuia - Ristorante-Pizzeria-Griglieria
Located in the ancient papal dungeons, hence the name (an old word for 'prison'), this friendly trattoria has a Napoli style cuisine including delicious pizza, gnocchi sorrentini and grills. Being a dungeon there is no outdoor seating but it' s surprisingly cozy and not at all gloomy.
06584813
Via Del Porto 1
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LeManiInPasta
Osteria
Up to the day the movers sadly (for me) whisked all my belongings away from Trastevere, I was one of the regulars at LeManiInPasta, having lived for several blissful years in picturesque Vicolo Dell'Atleta around the corner. Now that I live on the distant other side of the river, 6 long Rome kilometres away, I am no longer a regular but it's still my eatery of choice, never failing to impress. An osteria with a following of aficionados who regularly pop in for lunch is no small feat in Trastevere where competition is fierce and locals prefer generally not to eat out.
The fast moving and dynamic chef is Sardinian and his island's culinary traditions are evident in several of his signature dishes. A wall of glass separates kitchen from seating so you can watch him artfully juggling frypans, tossing pasta and swirling sauces and he looks out for you as well....
Specialties include marinated sea bass with shaved truffles (an unusual combination that works), a superb seafood antipasto by far superior to any I've had elsewhere, a selection of shellfish to have with or without pasta and top cuts of grilled meat. Ingredients are unfailingly super super fresh (suppliers create traffic havoc with their vans each morning in narrow Via Dei Genovesi).
The atmosphere is feel-good and relaxed and the waiters are friendly and attentive. You can even eat here on your own without feeling awkward in the slightest.
LeManiInPasta
Via Dei Genovesi
Tel: 065816017
Forno a Via Dei Genovesi
This bakery is situated opposite the fabulous restaurant Lemaniinpasta (which in fact serves the chunky bread from here). The family who run the forno has been steadily making a rustic style bread ('filone') for close to 100 years (I must ask them for exact dates one day). Any Roman bread lover will tell you that this loaf is without doubt one of the best in Rome. It's very crusty, with a very firm but airy centre and during baking hours, the fragrance is intense. One of the things I miss terribly about living nearby is the early morning scent of the baking bread wafting through my window.
The pizza bianca is also wonderfully delicious and at lunch there is always a crowd of students from the local high school waiting for the hot, fragrant slabs to emerge from the ovens. You can have the pizzas and bread filled with prosciutto or cheese from their well stocked deli. The students often take their panini into nearby Vicolo Dell'Atleta, where there is a low wall to sit on from where you too can admire this pretty, narrow street.
Via Dei Genovesi 11
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BarLillo (Da Luciano)
That espresso and cappuccino at Luciano's coffee shop are excellent is evident by the steady stream of patrons all morning until lunch. Of course, Luciano himself is always friendly and charming and this is a big draw as well. He can be seen happily running around organizing seating for waiting customers, mainly locals, squeezing into the small premises for the deliciously simple home cooked lunches. Menus change daily and there is always an interesting variety of cooked dishes and panini.
Via Dei Genovesi 39
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A small neighbourhood trattoria at the Santa Cecilia end of Trastevere where its authentic Roman food, in particular the pasta all'amatriciana, pasta alla carbonara and artichoke based dishes, make it an extremely popular spot. While you're here, have a look at Vicolo Dell'Atleta around the corner (which happens to be where I lived for several years), one of Trastevere's most picturesque streets.
Via Dei Vascellari 29
065818355
_____________________________________________________________________________
Taverna De Mercanti
Located in a rambling intact medieval warehouse and stables, you may very well feel you have stumbled across a movie set, particularly when you walk up the stone stairs to the seating area with its original ceiling and many rustic artifacts. Despite its obvious characteristic appeal to tourists, this restaurant is not at all shunned by area locals especially in summer when the effect of the torchlit facade with its many bougainvillea draped balconies full of little tables is very impressive. The menu is typically Roman with grilled meats a specialty.
Piazza Dei Mercanti
0658816
_______________________________________________________________
La Gattabuia - Ristorante-Pizzeria-Griglieria
Located in the ancient papal dungeons, hence the name (an old word for 'prison'), this friendly trattoria has a Napoli style cuisine including delicious pizza, gnocchi sorrentini and grills. Being a dungeon there is no outdoor seating but it' s surprisingly cozy and not at all gloomy.
06584813
Via Del Porto 1
___________________________________________________________________________
LeManiInPasta
Osteria
Up to the day the movers sadly (for me) whisked all my belongings away from Trastevere, I was one of the regulars at LeManiInPasta, having lived for several blissful years in picturesque Vicolo Dell'Atleta around the corner. Now that I live on the distant other side of the river, 6 long Rome kilometres away, I am no longer a regular but it's still my eatery of choice, never failing to impress. An osteria with a following of aficionados who regularly pop in for lunch is no small feat in Trastevere where competition is fierce and locals prefer generally not to eat out.
The fast moving and dynamic chef is Sardinian and his island's culinary traditions are evident in several of his signature dishes. A wall of glass separates kitchen from seating so you can watch him artfully juggling frypans, tossing pasta and swirling sauces and he looks out for you as well....
Specialties include marinated sea bass with shaved truffles (an unusual combination that works), a superb seafood antipasto by far superior to any I've had elsewhere, a selection of shellfish to have with or without pasta and top cuts of grilled meat. Ingredients are unfailingly super super fresh (suppliers create traffic havoc with their vans each morning in narrow Via Dei Genovesi).
The atmosphere is feel-good and relaxed and the waiters are friendly and attentive. You can even eat here on your own without feeling awkward in the slightest.
LeManiInPasta
Via Dei Genovesi
Tel: 065816017
_______________________________________________________________________
Forno a Via Dei Genovesi
This bakery is situated opposite the fabulous restaurant Lemaniinpasta (which in fact serves the chunky bread from here). The family who run the forno has been steadily making a rustic style bread ('filone') for close to 100 years (I must ask them for exact dates one day). Any Roman bread lover will tell you that this loaf is without doubt one of the best in Rome. It's very crusty, with a very firm but airy centre and during baking hours, the fragrance is intense. One of the things I miss terribly about living nearby is the early morning scent of the baking bread wafting through my window.
The pizza bianca is also wonderfully delicious and at lunch there is always a crowd of students from the local high school waiting for the hot, fragrant slabs to emerge from the ovens. You can have the pizzas and bread filled with prosciutto or cheese from their well stocked deli. The students often take their panini into nearby Vicolo Dell'Atleta, where there is a low wall to sit on from where you too can admire this pretty, narrow street.
Via Dei Genovesi 11
_______________________________________________________________________
BarLillo (Da Luciano)
That espresso and cappuccino at Luciano's coffee shop are excellent is evident by the steady stream of patrons all morning until lunch. Of course, Luciano himself is always friendly and charming and this is a big draw as well. He can be seen happily running around organizing seating for waiting customers, mainly locals, squeezing into the small premises for the deliciously simple home cooked lunches. Menus change daily and there is always an interesting variety of cooked dishes and panini.
Via Dei Genovesi 39
_________________________________________________________________
Osteria is an intimate restaurant. Make reservations for parties larger than 2. Sunday midday meals are treat.
ReplyDeleteTaverna is a wonderful place to eat as a family. The staff was jovial with my sloppy italian and cooks are generous with the porcinis.