You probably know by now that you are never EVER to enter a trattoria in Rome if 1) you are being cajoled by a sexy (or otherwise) waiter brandishing a menu on the street or 2) you see a "tourist menu" or 3) you see "lasagne" in big letters on the board. And with regard to pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) never EVER eat any from the stores where you can actually see piles of the stuff behind glass, where it's likely to have been sitting for hours, just centimetres from your face as you walk by. There's one particularly nasty place in the Pantheon square which fits this description perfectly. But pizza deserves it's own individual post so let's get back to trattorie.
Actually, I'm going to go straight ahead and suggest a few eateries that I know personally. The reason I've given you the phone numbers is so that you book. Despite the recession, and whining owners, restaurants tend to be fully booked.
Lemaniinpasta Osteria
Via dei Genovesi 37 (Trastevere)
Tel: 065816017
My ongoing favourite has it's own well deserved post.
Rome Food and Beverage
Cybo
Osteria, Wine & Cocktail Bar
Via di Tor Millina 27
Tel: 0668210341
www.cyboroma.it
A newly opened eatery located in a street off Piazza Navona where every store is a restaurant, bar or gelateria and there are just too many tourists and too much visual interference. Cybo however is a welcome oasis with its elegant/modern meets rustic/ancient ambience. Food here is traditionally simple, ideal if you're looking for typical Roman dishes with a subtle modern touch where each ingredient's flavour stands out. You can also eat "cicheti" , a Venetian word for little snacks, where you have many small titbits. The fried titbits are especially delicious. The wine list is noteworthy and the qualified barman is renowned for his creative cocktails. Music is soft lounge and there are outdoor tables for those who like to watch the passing parade.
Al Ristoro Degli Angeli
Via Luigi Orlando 2
(Piazza Bartolomeo Romano - Garbatella area)
Tel: 0651436020
Located in a 1920's piazza, off the beaten track in the quirky and fashionable Garbatella neighbourhood, this enoteca/trattoria has a Friday and Saturday night special of a mouth-watering boneless fish soup and an impressive wine selection.
Tram Tram Trattoria
Via Dei Reti 44/46
Tel: 06490416
Located in San Lorenzo in an industrial looking street in a somewhat alternative student area, Tram Tram offers a variety of delicious dishes prepared in a light Sicilian style.
Pizzeria la Montecarlo
Vicolo Savelli 11a-13
Tel: 066861877
The frenetic pace at this longstanding and popular establishment is not for the feint hearted. The service ethic is casual, brisk and friendly and the pizza, fried food and massive serves of pasta are all excellent. Lunches are dramatically quieter but evenings are a lot of fun if you can deal with the noise level. They don't take bookings so expect to stand in line or push in (as many do).
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Sora Margherita Trattoria
066874216
Piazza Delle Cinque Scole
When you first wander into this piazza there may appear to be no restaurant anywhere to be seen. The clue here is the single door graced with a red pompom curtain, a lantern above the door frame and a few rickety chairs for waiting patrons. If you're looking for elegance this tiny no-frills trattoria is definitely not the place. Expect unstable tables, barely comfortable folding chairs and elbow to elbow seating. However, food here is always exceptional and I'm always mystified by the variety of marvellous dishes that emerge from the kitchen which is the size of a cupboard. If you are not familiar with Jewish style Roman food, this trattoria is by far the best introduction. In winter it is the coziest place in the city and the tortellini in brodo will keep you warm for the rest of the day. Artichokes are a specialty as are their fresh fettuccine with ricotta. Needless to say, booking is essential. Did I mention there are no windows?
Via dei Genovesi 37 (Trastevere)
Tel: 065816017
My ongoing favourite has it's own well deserved post.
Cybo
Osteria, Wine & Cocktail Bar
Via di Tor Millina 27
Tel: 0668210341
www.cyboroma.it
A newly opened eatery located in a street off Piazza Navona where every store is a restaurant, bar or gelateria and there are just too many tourists and too much visual interference. Cybo however is a welcome oasis with its elegant/modern meets rustic/ancient ambience. Food here is traditionally simple, ideal if you're looking for typical Roman dishes with a subtle modern touch where each ingredient's flavour stands out. You can also eat "cicheti" , a Venetian word for little snacks, where you have many small titbits. The fried titbits are especially delicious. The wine list is noteworthy and the qualified barman is renowned for his creative cocktails. Music is soft lounge and there are outdoor tables for those who like to watch the passing parade.
Al Ristoro Degli Angeli
Via Luigi Orlando 2
(Piazza Bartolomeo Romano - Garbatella area)
Tel: 0651436020
Located in a 1920's piazza, off the beaten track in the quirky and fashionable Garbatella neighbourhood, this enoteca/trattoria has a Friday and Saturday night special of a mouth-watering boneless fish soup and an impressive wine selection.
Tram Tram Trattoria
Via Dei Reti 44/46
Tel: 06490416
Located in San Lorenzo in an industrial looking street in a somewhat alternative student area, Tram Tram offers a variety of delicious dishes prepared in a light Sicilian style.
Pizzeria la Montecarlo
Vicolo Savelli 11a-13
Tel: 066861877
The frenetic pace at this longstanding and popular establishment is not for the feint hearted. The service ethic is casual, brisk and friendly and the pizza, fried food and massive serves of pasta are all excellent. Lunches are dramatically quieter but evenings are a lot of fun if you can deal with the noise level. They don't take bookings so expect to stand in line or push in (as many do).
_________________________________________________________________________________
Sora Margherita Trattoria
066874216
Piazza Delle Cinque Scole
When you first wander into this piazza there may appear to be no restaurant anywhere to be seen. The clue here is the single door graced with a red pompom curtain, a lantern above the door frame and a few rickety chairs for waiting patrons. If you're looking for elegance this tiny no-frills trattoria is definitely not the place. Expect unstable tables, barely comfortable folding chairs and elbow to elbow seating. However, food here is always exceptional and I'm always mystified by the variety of marvellous dishes that emerge from the kitchen which is the size of a cupboard. If you are not familiar with Jewish style Roman food, this trattoria is by far the best introduction. In winter it is the coziest place in the city and the tortellini in brodo will keep you warm for the rest of the day. Artichokes are a specialty as are their fresh fettuccine with ricotta. Needless to say, booking is essential. Did I mention there are no windows?
Dear Romebuongiorno,
ReplyDeleteI have to write to thank you for posting the above photo of Sora Margherita as I have been trying to track down this restaurant for a decade now for both culinary and nostalgic reasons. Over 15 years ago, while I was studying in Florence, my grandmother and mother visited and we took a day trip to Rome. On the advice of one of my professors, who scribbled the address to the restaurant on a scrap of paper, we hopped in a taxi after sightseeing and headed over to this enchanting area of the city for lunch (much to the annoyance of our taxi driver, who had a hard time finding the place). When we finally arrived, we saw exactly what you have pictured above, yet with the neon sign lit, quite unclear as to whether this was truly the place without any sign indicating a restaurant.
Trustingly, we went in, where we were greeted by a most enthusiastic proprietress, who seated us at a charming table in the window and struggled to explain that we need to "join the club" to dine there. Having come this far, of course we joined, and proceeded to have the most memorable 3-hour lunch of our lives (we were the only diners there).
I now visit Rome frequently for work, and always take the time to stroll through this area looking for exactly the photo you have posted above! My grandmother, a great adventuress herself, reminisced about that lunch every time I saw her until she passed away. Of course, my mom still talks about it as well, and inquires as to whether I've found it.
This one simple lunch in Rome at such an enchanting place has evolved into one of my most treasured memories of a meaningful visit among our family's three generations of women. I think I'll frame this photo if you don't mind, and I'll definitely be visiting Soro Margherita again very soon.
Thanks so much,
Shannon Venable, Publisher
www.italiakids.com
I could have sworn we were seated at a round table adjacent to a high window with bars on it? Are there really no windows? Have I brightened up this memory to include light streaming in?!!
ReplyDeleteSimply loved your comment. Grazie. No,absolutely no windows (mmmmm I'll go back soon and double check!). But if you were seated close to the door, it's quite possible that you perceived it as a glowing window into the outside world. I'm impressed that you remember it so clearly. This tiny little 'buco' has become popular and you now need to book in advance. You don't have to 'join the club' anymore (that was likely a tax evasion). When next you come, we can go together.
ReplyDelete